What you don’t know about St. Mark’s Square

St. Mark’s Square is, no doubt, one of the most beautiful and famous squares in the world.

Even if you have seen it thousand times, during your life, it’s always a pleasure looking at, without saying a word. If you see it at night, it is even more beautiful and suggestive.

Its majesty can catch your eye and fill your heart up with wonder.

Probably you visit St. Mark’s Square several times and you know its history, but maybe there is still something you don’t know…

The nowadays shape of St. Mark’s Square is not the same there was in the past. Today this amazing square is the most popular place in Venice, where you can still admire the power of the ancient Serenissima Republic. But originally St. Mark’s Square was supposed to be a huge vegetable garden, crossed by Rio Batario, Rio Zecca and Rio Cavalletto.

Back in time the Doge’s Palace was a castle, with towers and fences, surrounded by a canal. St. Mark’s Basin was the place where ships used to dock and unload goods.

The changing process of St. Mark’s Square began in 826, when the body of Evangelist Mark arrived in Venice. Finally the Basilica started to be built. Unfortunately, in 976 a huge fire destroyed the Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. In 978 the Basilica was rebuilt and the Doge’s Palace too.

In the same year, Doge Pietro I Orseolo commissioned a hospice for infirm pilgrims and needy people, near the bell tower.

In 1264 St. Mark’s Square was floored in a herringbone pattern with bricks. From that moment on, the square have started to become that magic palace we can see today.

The legend of the Devil’s bridge on Torcello Island

On Torcello island there is a bridge called The Devil’s Bridge. This particular name has no certain origines, some people say that it comes from the nickname of a family who used to live there, but other people think that is connected to an ancient story, a legend, where the main character are a witch, a young Austrian soldier, a young girl and the devil himself.

THE LEGEND OF THE DEVIL’S BRIDGE ON TORCELLO ISLAND

This legend tells the story of a Venetian girl who fell in love with a young austrian soldier during the Austrian occupation in Venice. Their love wasn’t approved by the girl’s parents who did everything they could to stop it.

The girl was forced to leave Venice, in order to avoid any chance to see her lover, untile she received the news that her beloved had been murdered by hidden hands. She lost herself in despair, she stopped eating and started abandoning herself to death, when a family friend advised her to go and visit a witch he knew, to solve her problems.

THE PACT WITH THE DEVIL

The witch was happy to help the young girl and made a pact with the Devil: 7 souls of 7 Christian children, who died prematurely, for the Austrian soldier’s life. They agreed to meet at the Devil’s Bridge, on Torcello island.

The two women reached the island by boat, few months after the pact was made, and they waited for the Devil to come, on the right side of the bridge. The young girl was holding a lighted candle in a hand and a gold coin in the other. She was ready to see her soldier again.

The girl started crossing the bridge, the witch invoked the Devil who suddenly appeared. Seeing the girl with the gold coin, the Devil took the space&time key out of his mouth and he stripped it up and let it fall right over the bridge, into the water, then he took the coin and the Austrian soldier appeared on the left side of the bridge.

The young girl saw him and pass through the Devil’s body to reach him, once in front of him, she blew the candle out. The darkness showed them the way to live happly ever after.

The witch still had to pay her debt and she agreed with the Devil to bring the 7 young souls there, at the Devil’s Bridge of Torcello Island, on December 24.

Unfortuately, the witch was killed by a young man who discovered the pact and wanted to save the souls of these poor children. On December 24, the Devil came to Torcello to receive his delivery, without knowing about the witch’s death.
Since that day, the Devil appears every year on the same day, under the shape of a black cat, waiting for the 7 young souls.

Lio Piccolo: the paradise of pink flamingos

If you are looking for a quiet place, where nature is still the main owner of its own space and where you can still feel the atmosphere of Venice, you have to go and visit Lio Piccolo, a place close to Cavallino-Treporti.

During a spring afternoon I went to Lio Piccolo. This is the perfect period to go there, when nature awakes, plants start sprouting and animals come out from hibernation, after a long winter.

I got there by car, but then I decided to walk, following the path that is usually crossed by people on a bicycle. This path is surrounded by marshes and farmlands, covered by something magical.

Lio Piccolo has a small square, a church and an Armenian church tower, that you can visit, but, please, don’t forget to leave an offer!

Do something for yourself and take a couple of hours to walk around and pay attention to all those natural sounds we are not used to hear, cuddling yourselves among the arms of silence. The only thing you will hear, except for a bird twitting, is the noise of a bycicle wheel touching the gravel.

Lio Piccolo is a hidden paradise few steps away from Cavallino-Treporti, a place where you get surprised at every corner for its bio-diversity, but above all, the thing that will really strike you, is the presence of pink flamingos! Exactly, could you imagine to find a group of pink flamingos in Veneto? I couldn’t, but they are actually there, free of standing on one leg while the sun is going down and free to fly above the lagoon.

Italians usually forget about what Italy can offer, problably without even knowing that behind their house, there are places like Lio Piccolo. If you have a bike, take it and ride it, go and discover this amazing place in the Venitian lagoon.

One very last tip: if you have the chance to visit Lio Piccolo, take your time, don’t be in a hurry, give yourselves some time and let nature surprise you: after centuries, it is still able to astonish us.

3 reasons why you should love the St. Erasmus Violet Artichoke

Personally, I love artichokes, all kind of them, but being Venetian, I particularly love the Sant’Erasmo Violet Artichoke.
St. Erasmus is the biggest island in the Venetian Lagoon, it is also called the vegetable garden of Venice, for being the garden of Venice, in fact, the population density here is extremely low, because of the great presence of fields, including the ones dedicated to the Violet Artichoke.

If you have the chance to talk to a local, he will probably list a thousands of reasons why you should love the St. Erasmus Violet Artichoke, but I will tell you the 3 reasons why I love it and I have developed a kind of addiction for “castraura” .

1. YOU CAN EAT IT RAW

The “castraura”, is the first bud of the artichoke. It is so good and tender that you can eat it raw. If you are visiting St. Erasmus Island in May, you can experience the thrill of tasting the artichoke right after its harvest.
Eating the Violet Artichoke raw is a particular gastronomic experience you cannot miss, expecially if you cut it in stripes and add a little olive oil and a lemon juice on top.

2. HOWEVER YOU PREPARE IT, IT’S YUMMY

The second reason why I love the Sant’Erasmo Violet Artichoke is that no matter how you prepare it, it’s always fantastic. You can fry it, eat it with rice, sautéed or make an artichoke lasagna and in many other ways, but if you have the chance to go to the Violet Artichoke Festival you can taste it the way locals cook it. Locals know all the secrets of its cuisine, for sure. The artichoke beer was the great news of the year.

3. IT IS A SLOWFOOD PRESIDIA PRODUCT

Being a local and traditional culture, exclusively coltivated at St. Erasmus and on a few other areas of the Venice lagoon, the Violet Artichoke has become a Slow Food Presidium, which means that it is safeguarded product and it is defended from the environmental degradation and the threat of the agricultural industry. The Artichoke Violet is unique and you will love it. Trust me!

How Venice work?

Venice is not just a unique and magnificent stage set. It is also a city with a resident population, which has productive activities, transportation and services.

Many people are enchanted by the uniqueness of Venice, with grand palaces that are reflected on the water. But you know how they can be built on a plot so unstable or Why they have certain characteristics? Many People worry about the high water without understanding how works the delicate system of tides in the Venice Lagoon.

This Video you explains How Venice work.

Exploring the beautiful islands of Venice

Venice is one of the most beautiful and breathtaking cities in the world. Water replaces concrete streets, and gelato is the choice of iced treat, what’s not to love? While the city has rightfully been the muse of countless romantics and artists, there is an unexplored side to Venice. In Venice’s 341 sq kilometer ecosystem, there are more than a hundred islands, but most tourists simply stick to the city center. Instead, here a few reasons why you should explore the beautiful islands of Venice.

The beaches

As you might imagine Venice and its islands have many wonderful areas to sunbathe or go for a swim. However, there is a place that stands out. The Island of Pellestrina is a fishermen’s community, away from the bustle of the city center. Here, the beach is uncrowded, with crisp, clear water that is just begging to be swam in. If that’s not enough, it’s also home to Da Celeste, one of the best seafood restaurants in Venice. Although the island having great seafood not very surprising, as most of the island’s residents are fisherman.

The old school feel

Venice may not be the first place you think of when it comes to old country Italy, but the island of Torcello, a short ferry ride from St. Mark’s square, screams classic Italy. Considered the birthplace of Venice, it’s a network of small canals and green fields, retaining a bit of the old time ambience.

Glass blowing

Glass blowing isn’t the first thing most people think of when it comes to Venice breaks, but a trip to the Italian region and the island of Murano, will allow you to explore an area that lives and breathes glass blowing. There are glass blowing factories, museums, and hundreds of shops selling all things made of murano glass. It’s not for everybody, but it’s a truly unique place to visit.

The colors

The island of Burano is an island that must be visited, and seen to be believed. The island is made of up colorful fishing houses found all along the canals, a veritable rainbow of colors; it’s a place for any photography buff. They are so strict about the colors of the houses that if someone wishes to paint their home, they must first send a request to the government, who then makes sure certain colors are permitted!

As you can see, there’s so much more to Venice than the city center. Venture out around the islands, and you’ll find a memory that’ll last a lifetime.

Street food in Venice – Things that must be sampled at least once in a lifetime

Street Food in Venice: where to eat the best meatball,the best fried food in a paper cone, the best sandwich and the best fritter.

Today we’ll start a new section that will be enriched by your suggestions. The attention is focused on all those dishes, cicchietti, sweets, and food in general, you should try at least once in a lifetime if you come to Venice. We are talking about both street food, cheap but delicious and tasty, and simple delicacies to eat while sitting in the local pubs and restaurants, in every case with a more than reasonable price.

Let’s start with the aperitif, small and big appetizers and sweets.

All the venues below are located in areas very close to Piazzale Roma and Santa Lucia train station so are easily reachable on foot.

WHERE TO DRINK THE SPRITZ

Choose a place to drink a spritz or aperitif in Venice is not easy but among all we suggest the Osteria al Timon in Fondamenta degli Ormesini. In addition to a wide selection of wines by glass and a really good spritz , a variety of unique appetizers suitable for everyone, what is most striking is certainly the possibility drink and eating sitted in one of the three boats stationed in front of the Osteria.

WHERE TO EAT THE BEST MEATBALLS OF THE UNIVERSE

At least once in life you must try one of the meatballs at Osteria alla Vedova, in Strada Nuova, just a few steps from Ca ‘d’Oro. The venue is the classic bacaro that exudes definitely an atmosphere of old times, a few and very narrow seats, but most of the people prefears to stay in the street just outside the door quietly waiting for a meatball and a good glass of wine. What’s so special about these meatballs? They’re very crunchy, the consistency is absolutely perfect and the flavour definitely impassable.

WHERE TO EAT THE BEST FRIED FOOD IN A PAPER CONE

The Frito Inn is perfect for those who want to eat in a very small amount of time a big portion of fried fish or battered vegetables or chips, or an amazing mozzarella in carrozza. This venue where the food is eaten just standing is located in a small and characteristic square that’s just a short walk from the train station, near the market of Cannaregio, in Campo San Leonardo. The fried food is always done at the moment and is very digestible. The prices are very competitive: a paper cone full of fried fish costs just € 4.

WHERE TO EAT A FAST BUT TASTY SANDWICH

The Bacareto di Lele has been since ages a must place for all those who live in Venice as both students and tourists. Is just at 300m from Piazzale Roma in a typical Campiello, before the Church of San Nicolò dei Tolentini. The small sandwiches with cold cuts of all kinds are absolutely irresistible, always fresh, fragrant and appetizing, and at an unbeatable price: € 1 each. To taste with the classical shadow(glass) of wine.

WHERE TO EAT THE PERFECT FRITTER

The fritter is the classic Venetian sweet that all the bakeries produce during Carnival. The fritters are not all of the same kind. Those absolutely perfect, classic Venetian without stuffing with raisins and pine nuts, soft, fragrant, that melt in your mouth, can be eaten at the pastry shop Tonolo in Calle Crosera. Not to be outdone the cream or zabaglione ones. Tonolo is a very popular pastry, with all kind of desserts strictly of their own production, and is just a short walk from Piazzale Roma.

Below you will find a map with all the locals that we talked about marked as to reach them more easily.

The Wars of the Fists

Since 1300 on some bridges in Venice used to took place the notorious Wars of the Fists .

Venice is the city of bridges. Can be counted more than 400 bridges connecting the 118 little isles composing one of the most unique cities in the world. Some of those bridges are really famous, such as Rialto Bridge or the Bridge of Whispers (Ponte dei Sospiri), some bridges have no headboards (only two in the whole city: one in Torcello and one in the city centre near Rio of San Felice, just a few steps from the School of Misericordia) and there are also Bridges of Fists (Ponti dei Pugni) and Bridges of War (Ponti della Guerra). But what were the latter used for?

They were once used for the famous Wars of Fists. Of this particular kind two can be found in Venice, the one of the Fists and one near Santa Fosca, were can still be seen, even if the bridges have been rebuilt, some strange footprints made of Istrian stone.

What were the Fists Fights? In Venice used to live two rival factions: Castellani and Nicolotti. The first ones lived in the east zone of the city (the industrial one, whit the Arsenal), the others lived in the west zone of Venice near the Church of San Nicolò dei Mendicoli (they were mainly fishermen). The two factions, bitter enemies, faced each other since 1300, between September and Christmas, in really fierce battles. The battles could be individual boxing matches, multiple matches or real battles for the conquest of the bridge.

The Fists Wars (the stone footprints served to arrange the fighters during the single matches) took place on various bridges, such as the nowadays named dei Carmini, the one of Santa Fosca and the one of the War. As the bridges had no headboards, was declared winner the one that threw more enemies in the water.

The rivalry between the factions was evident even in the smallest details: for example the Castellani used to wear red scarves and caps, the Nicolotti black ones; the Castellani’s women wore a flower on one side of the breast, the Nicolotti’s one on the other side.

The Fists Wars became, with the passing of time, more and more cruel and for that reason were banished in 1705. In Venice these wars where substituted, just during Carnival time, by the Forces of Hercules (Forze d’Ercole).

A life in pictures – Douglas Kirkland in Venice

The extraordinary photos by Douglas Kirkland in exhibition at the Telecom Future Centre in Venice.

Thanks to the collaboration with Vanity Fair magazine and the Istituto Luce Cinecittà, Venice honor the great photographer Douglas Kirkland with “A life in pictures”, an extraordinary exhibition that will be presented on September 29th at the Telecom Future Centre in Campo San Salvador (near Rialto Bridge) also on the occasion of the 71st Venice Film Festival (free entry).

Douglas Kirkland is perhaps best known for his iconic 1961 photo session with Marilyn Monroe, taken when he was only 27. Those photos, published on Look Magazine, are considered to be the most beautiful photos of the actress.

The artist, born in Toronto, has been one of the main photographer of Look Magazine in the 1960s and 1970s with hundreds of fashion and celebrity works, from Mick Jagger to Sophia Loren, from Coco Chanel to Elizabeth Taylor, Marlene Dietrich and Andy Warhol. He has also worked together with the great director Stanley Kubrick on the set of “2001 A Space Odyssey”.

The exhibition “Douglas Kirkland: A life in pictures” will be opened free to the public from August 30th to September 6th (10am to 6pm). In exhibition the 88 most important photos from Kirkland career presented in two display areas: 58 pictures dedicated to international celebrities like Marylin Monroe, Marlene Dietrich, Brigitte Bardot, Warren Beauty, Salma Hayek, Nicole Kidman, John Lennon, Susan Sarandon, Elizabeth Taylor, Rachel Welch and many more will propose a suggestive path in two fascinating cloisters of the monumental complex of the old monastery of San Salvador. On the other hand, in the frescoed refectory will be presented 30 photos of famous Italian actors (Monica Bellucci, Raoul Bova, Pierfrancesco Favino, Isabella Ferrari, Beppe Fiorello, Giovanna Mezzogiorno, Laura Morante and others) shot on the sets of the Italian films cult. Some pieces of the films, such as “La dolce Vita”, “Il Gattopardo” and many more, will be screened in the same room.

Free entry

 

A human rose for Venice – an unforgettable April 25th

A majestic human rose was created in Piazza San Marco on April25th , a memorable image that will go down in history.

April 25th is a special day for Venice. In addition to Liberation Day, it’s both the Feast Day of Saint Mark, patron of the city, and the Festa del Bòcolo (Feast of the Rosebud). But this year the day was celebrated in an extraordinary way: by creating a giant ‘human rosebud‘ in Piazza San Marco. A unique event in one of the most famous Italian settings that has make Venice even more romantic, if it is possible!

This incredible performance, which was accompanied by a face painting session and a flash reading, is part of a larger project called “Venice Revealed” conceived by the venetian author Alberto Toso Fei and the artist Elena Tagliapietra. This project has a great ambition: to tell legends and old traditions that could be forgotten with 13 events organised throughout two years in different locations around Venice and proposing different artistic performances at each event.

The 6th event involved more than 1000 Venetians who met in a sunny Feast Day in Piazza San Marco to form the majestic rosebud with their bodies, 850mq of red petals and other 150 mq of stem and green leaves.

You will ask: why a rosebud on April 25th?
According to the legend, in the 8th century a man of low social standing, Tancredi, fell in love with Maria, a beautiful woman from the noble family of Partecipazio. Her father didn’t approve their love so she suggest his beloved to sign up for the Crusades and come back triumphant in order to earn her father’s trust. However, Tancredi was wounded mortally in battle but before he died he took a rosebud soaked with his own blood and asked a comrade to bring it to his beloved Maria in Venice. The day after she was found lifeless in her room with the rose laid down on her heart. The 25th of April was the date. Since then, on St. Mark’s Day in Venice, all men give their beloved a red rosebud as pledge of their love.

This tradition was presented definitely in a new and contemporary way sending also an important message to the world: Venice is not just a tourist destination, it’s much more. Venice is an extraordinarily vibrant city where also traditions and anecdotes has to be discovered. Venice is to be revealed in all its hidden treasures. Venice is to live, to experience, to love.

24 hours in Venice in three minutes

Try to imagine a Venice that is frenetic and bristling with movement, alive and pulsating, with the passing hours marked so perfectly that it seems like an imaginary place.

This excellent video, created by Joerg Niggli and selected for Artfutura 2012, allows us to enjoy 24 hours in Venice in three minutes.

The flowing of life on the canals, the steamboats, the cargo ships, the gondolas, the motorboats and the people passing through the streets and the world’s most famous piazza all come to life from dawn to dusk.

Bacari & Cicheti – Quick Snack in Venice

For a quick snack in Venice, people visit the bacari to taste the cicheti

For those who come to Venice, whether it be just passing through or staying for a few days, it is an absolute must to do the rounds of the Bacari, the typical Venetian taverns where you can savour snacks and drink good wine, mostly standing, but sometimes even sitting. We’re talking about a quick snack that is satisfying and, above all, economic.

The term “Bàcaro” has controversial origins: some say it comes from Bacchus (god of wine), and others argue that it comes from the expression “far bàcara” which, in the local dialect, meant to celebrate noisily.

The bacari are meeting places frequented by many Venetians. Inside, you can taste the excellent “cicheti”, or finger food of all kinds: from baccalà mantecato (purée of salted codfish) to meatballs, from sarde in saor (marinated sardines) to stir-fried baby vegetables, from scampi to soppressa (a typical salami). All this, of course, accompanied by a glass of good wine: Prosecco, Raboso, Cabernet or Soave.

At the bar you may hear the term “ombra de vin“: a glass of wine in Venice is traditionally called “shadow” because wine merchants were accustomed to bargain under the bell tower and to keep the wine cool they followed the shade.

We cannot avoid mentioning some of our favourite bacari: “Muro” in Campo Bella Vienna at the Rialto, and nearby: “All’Arco“, “Ai do Mori” and “Ae do spade“, in a little side calle (street) of Ruga Rialto; “La Vedova” in front of the stop of Ca d’Oro; and “Cantina Ai Schiavi” (called Al Bottegon) in Fondamenta Nani, close to Zattere.

Libreria Acqua Alta in Venice

A stop at Libreria Acqua Alta in Venice is a must for book lovers

One of the most original libraries in the world is located in Venice. Libreria Acqua Alta, in Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, is definitely the only place on earth where you will find a huge selection of new and used books set out in undoubtedly special shelving: boats, gondolas, canoes, tanks and anywhere that it is possible to insert them. And the books are not only for buying but have been turned into true objects of furniture. Old encyclopaedias, the kind that no one buys any more, become steps in an amazing staircase, or cover the walls of the outer courtyards, transforming them into colourful surfaces. To complete the furnishings, there are also poles, oars and mannequins.

Luigi Frizzo, the polite and affable owner of Libreria Acqua Alta, opened this enchanted place about ten years ago and slowly it has become a success: it is greatly appreciated by Venetians and tourists alike. Certainly, the ambience and atmosphere contribute to make the place fascinating and mysterious, but the huge selection of books in all languages also plays its part.

Sixty percent of the books are new. In the first room, you can find many texts of all kinds about Venice, but also books on art and cinema, sport and food, and music. The other room is packed with comic books and bestsellers. Browsing through the “shelves”, you will also find four friendly cats, unavoidable in Venice, that scurry about and sleep in the midst of the printed paper.

In short, Libreria Acqua Alta in Venice can safely be regarded as one of the wonders of Venice, a ‘must see’ just a few steps from St Mark’s Square for those who love to read and for those who also want to discover the city through the many individual activities that make it up.

Opening Hours

Every day

9:00 am – 8:00 pm